Morphodynamics Assessment by Means of Mesoforms and Video-Monitoring in a Dissipative Beach

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URI: http://hdl.handle.net/10498/21846
DOI: 10.3390/geosciences8120448
ISSN: 2076-3263
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2018-12Department
Ciencias de la TierraSource
Geosciences 2018, 8(12), 448Abstract
In this study a video-monitoring system was used to analyze the presence of mesoforms
during a time period of five years in the urban beach of La Victoria, Cádiz, Spain. This technique
allowed the generation of plan views using an improved version of ULISES software. The presence
and spatiotemporal variability of the most common mesoforms, such as bars and cusps, was identified
in all the plan views. Furthermore, the morphodynamic state of the beach was investigated in
combination with local hydrodynamic data. The cusp systems were also studied by means of wavelet
analyses and different theories on cusps formation were tested. The presence of the investigated
features was related to the wave energy and its seasonal variations. The behavior of the mesoforms
demonstrated the important role of a subtidal rocky outcrop in the nearshore processes. The results
also show that bars and cusps as indicators of the nearshore processes are a useful tool for the
macroscopic analysis of surf zone dynamics in dissipative beaches.
Subjects
mesoforms; bars; cusps; rip currents; video-monitoring system; ULISES; wavelet; Gulf of CadizCollections
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