Morphodynamics Assessment by Means of Mesoforms and Video-Monitoring in a Dissipative Beach

Abstract

In this study a video-monitoring system was used to analyze the presence of mesoforms during a time period of five years in the urban beach of La Victoria, Cádiz, Spain. This technique allowed the generation of plan views using an improved version of ULISES software. The presence and spatiotemporal variability of the most common mesoforms, such as bars and cusps, was identified in all the plan views. Furthermore, the morphodynamic state of the beach was investigated in combination with local hydrodynamic data. The cusp systems were also studied by means of wavelet analyses and different theories on cusps formation were tested. The presence of the investigated features was related to the wave energy and its seasonal variations. The behavior of the mesoforms demonstrated the important role of a subtidal rocky outcrop in the nearshore processes. The results also show that bars and cusps as indicators of the nearshore processes are a useful tool for the macroscopic analysis of surf zone dynamics in dissipative beaches.